Rock Climbing
General

The Mountain Club of South Africa was founded in 1891 and at present consists of 13 sections throughout Southern Africa. Membership holds many privileges and is certainly sought after by persons who have a love of adventure and appreciation of the natural environment. We are sure that you will find the Mountain Club interesting with much excitement to be found in its activities. Ask lots of questions. Join in our activities as they suit you, organise your equipment so that you are comfortable without carrying too heavily, set aside enough time for walking or climbing and suddenly you have access to a new life style.

Eastern Province Section

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Steep ground security courses are held regularly; we recommend the attendance of these to learn and maintain the basics of rope safety. Rock climbing meets also appear on the meet sheet. A well-equipped introductory Rock Climbing School is run by members.

Lady's Slipper : The closest area to PE (30kms & MCSA property) . The routes here consist of moderate grade trad routes with a few hard sports routes , all of which requires a bit of walking . Currently the trad grades varies from easy to 24 . Sport lines are scattered over the area and requires a bit of walking with grades varying from 20 to 25 . There is also various boulders for excellent bouldering on the Mountain Club's property . * Gear - Full rack *

Van Stadens Gorge : Just about 3kms further on from Lady's Slipper . This venue offers two spots, being the Main wall and the recently developed area called , The Beach . Walk-in can take up to 20 minutes . The Main wall is situated just next to the dam wall and The Beach is around the corner of the first river bend . The grades at the Main Wall varies from 19 to 29 with 9 lines . The Beach offers 8 lines with grades varying from 18 to 29 . * Gear - Sport rack *

GRIPS : Just over an hour from Port Elizabeth past Patensie and on into Grootrivierpoort, (the start of the Baviaanskloof), lies GRIPS. This climbing consists of excellent slabs, but can sometimes be a bit run out . A route there called Graceland (18) rates amongst the best slab routes you will ever do . * Gear - Full rack *

GORGES : The gorges lying to the north of the Cockscomb mountain are Pinnacle, Momentum, Eagle, Tierhoek and Naga's which have excellent routes. The driving time is approximately 2 hrs from Port Elizabeth . Please note : This is on private farms and permission have to be granted before you can climb there . Each gorge offers sport & trad routes.

GRAHAMSTOWN : Just over an hour away from PE and offering venues with very easy access . Close to the cars and a great venue for a quick daytrip . Just before Grahamstown is the well known Howison's Poort on the left hand side and on the road towards Bedford is Thornkloof . All is sport and grades varies from 16 to 30 . There is a lot of climbing to be had at each venue .
* Gear - Sport rack *

Because access has sometimes been tricky in the past, we do not wish to publish detailed route guides and locality maps. Persons interested in climbing in the Eastern Cape should please contact Derek Marshall 083 681 8713 or marshall@qsafrica.co.za, to make arrangrments.

Rock climbing in the East London area

There are some really good climbing areas in and around East London.

WINDMILL HOLE : situated on the outskirts of town. 5km from the main shopping centre, Vincent Park. Has 7 Sport routes and 10 trad routes. Walk in is about 400m of flat path. Great swimming, braaing and rock jumping area. No access issues .
* Gear - Full rack *

NSA(New South Africa) : Just out of town. 6km from the main shopping centre. Has 49 bolted routes and 19 trad routes. This is the biggest single sport crag in the Eastern Cape. Grades range from 13 to 29. walk-in is about 200m of flattish path. No access issues. * Gear - Full rack *

BUFFALO RIVER : Situated 23km from East London. Shortish dolerite crags set in very dense river bush. . Walk-ins vary from 50m to 2km. There are 9 bolted routes and about 350 trad routes. Fair potential for further route development. There are no access issues at the moment, but please contact Allen Luck on 083 7564290 to make arrangements .* Gear – Full rack *

YELLOW SANDS : 27 km from East London. 3 bolted routes and 6 trad lines. Walk-in 40m. 25m dolerite crag. NOTE: Access is limited and there are issues. Please contact Derek Marshall 083 681 8713 or marshall@qsafrica.co.za, to make arrangrments.

INKWENKWEZI : 2 short bolted lines. Walk-in 25m.

LALAPANZI : 60km from East London on the road to Morgan Bay. 100m Walk-in. Dolerite crags . 2 sport routes and 29 trad lines. Owner is happy to have climbers. Please make the necessary arrangements . * Gear – Full rack *

MORGAN BAY : Stunning dolerite sea cliffs. Some areas are affected by the tide. 8 sport routes and 496 trad lines. Perfect camping. Walk-ins are generally quite short. No access issues . * Gear – Full rack *

HOGSBACK : 150 km from East London. Walk-in to Hog 1 is about 600m stiff up hill, from the top car park, which can only be reached by 4x4 or company car. About 35 stunning sport lines, some of which aredouble pitch. About 200 trad lines many of which are double pitch. There is great potential for new lines on Hog1, 2 ,3 and the Elandsberg. There are also scattered sport lines near Madonna and Child and Stephenson's Falls. No access issues . * Gear – Full rack *

FORT FORDYCE : 170km from East London on the Fort Beaufort road. 25 sport routes set in thick Eastern Cape hilltop bush. No access issues, but please contact the relevant Nature Conservation Official to make a booking. They have great accommodation at very reasonable prices . * Gear – Sport rack *

MARY & MATHA : 360 km from East London. The most stunning spot , 100m high dolerite face. Walk-in is stiff. 1.3 km of severe up hill. All most limitless trad and about 10 high quality bolted lines . PLEASE TAKE NOTE: Access is limited and there are issues. Please contact Derek Marshall 083 681 8713 or marshall@qsafrica.co.za to make arrangements.

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